I have dreamed for a long time about opening a gelateria. Thank God I don’t have an entrepreneurial spirit, otherwise, I would have finished the stock before the customers arrived!
I eat ice cream in summer, winter, in warm countries, at the Polar Circle, it doesn’t matter. I like to test it everywhere I go.
However, Italy remains at the top!
GELATERIAS IN FLORENCE
I have been to Florence 13 times so far and I have tested all the gelaterias recommended by connoisseurs/locals. As others have appeared, also recommended, I have visited them too, what do you think.
Paradoxically, the more gelaterias I tested, the more I couldn’t answer the question “where is the best ice cream in Florence?”. Not only because it is clearly a matter of taste – I like pistachio, maybe you like fruit ice cream, I like chocolate, maybe you like vanilla. But, mostly, because I like a certain flavor from a certain gelateria – pistachio from X, raspberry from Y, an unusual flavor from Z, and so on.
Hmm… I should do this: taste all the chocolate ice cream from everyone and make a top, then all the mango ice cream from everyone and make a top, and so on with each flavor, until… I end up in the Emergency Room and the Italians send me to AA – Anonymous Aromaholics 🙂
If I can’t say where to buy the best ice cream in Florence, on the other hand, I can say where NOT to buy it!
Do not buy from shops where the ice cream looks like Everest! No artisanal ice cream could stand like that. I call it “pump inflated ice cream”. It’s clear that it’s full of chemicals, to be able to stand like a mountain over the container…
BERNARDO BUONTALENTI – THE INVENTOR OF MODERN ICE CREAM
I found out that sweetened ice could be found as far back as Antiquity! However, Mr. Buontalenti, an Italian born in Florence in 1531, transformed ice into a creamy delicacy, revolutionizing the cold dessert.
The man was multi-talented: artist, military engineer, architect, mechanic, mathematician, and even a theater set designer! He worked for the Medici family.
It is said that one day, Buontalenti was tasked with organizing an opulent party to celebrate the arrival of a Spanish delegation that had come to Florence to visit the Grand Duke Cosimo I.
Cosimo wanted to impress those people, of course! A lavish party was organized, with theater performances, fireworks, and other extravagances. And Buontalenti thought of preparing a special dessert.
Under the Boboli Gardens, the Medici family had an ice cellar. Buontalenti was an expert in storing ice and snow, inventing a kind of cellar lined with cork and wood for insulation.
For dessert, he made a kind of frozen zabaglione, from sweetened milk, eggs, and wine melted over salted ice. To this sweet egg cream, he added flavors of bergamot, lemon, and orange. (The milk and eggs provided the velvety texture that made it famous.)
And so, we can say that modern ice cream was born.
In 1979, merchants in Florence decided to honor Buontalenti with an ice cream competition.
This competition was won by GELATERIA BADIANI, which came up with a new flavor paying homage to the original ice cream created at the Medici court.
This new flavor quickly became popular throughout Florence and can be found in many gelaterias. It is called Buontalenti and is based on egg cream and whipped cream.
But to taste it “like its mother made it,” go to Gelateria Badiani. The owners have registered the name of this flavor to protect it.
I reached the venue in question, which is not exactly central. Oh my, it is something!!!
Your mouth waters as soon as you see all the flavors in the displays.
I get 3 flavors, among which, of course, is Buontalenti. Two would have been more than enough, believe me, but the temptation was strong!
Beyond dozens of types of ice creams, they also have cakes and pastries that make you want to organize a party every day!
WHERE TO EAT ICE CREAM IN FLORENCE (what I have tested)
EDOARDO
Considered by some to be the best in Florence.
It is right in Piazza del Duomo, as you look at the Duomo, in its “right corner.”
The location is very small, but who cares, as long as the ice cream is very, very good. You take it and go out to the street to eat it.
I, who prefer to buy in a cup, so it doesn’t drip on me from the cone, got it here in an edible basketry. Very nice to hold and eat from (and it too…).
LA CARRAIA
When I discovered it for the first time, I knew there was only one, two bridges away from Ponte Vecchio.
In the meantime, I see they have opened in another location as well. (The second location I found is near the Basilica of Santa Croce.)
I liked many flavors from them! I mostly went for the fruit ones.
EMPORIO, SANTA TRINITA
Santa Trinita is one bridge closer than Carraia (practically, the first bridge after Ponte Vecchio), also positioned at the end of the bridge.
I was amused when I discovered in my photos from different years how prices have risen… (I will check the prices from 2024 this fall.)
I bought black sesame ice cream here. And not just once…
Interesting, I won’t say no.
But I also tasted others because the offer is indeed rich.
Every time I get ice cream here, I like to eat it perched on the edge of the bridge (see the photo at the beginning). It is a wonderful view of the river and, especially, of Ponte Vecchio. Day and night…
SBRINO
From what I’ve “sniffed out”, it’s less touristy. I found out about it from locals.
And since I sniffed it out, I decided to eat it too 🙂
They have a small location, situated on the other side of the river, not far from the Basilica of Santo Spirito or the gelateria La Carraia.
GROM
If you are in Piazza del Duomo and have already tasted the ice cream from Edoardo, then Grom is another good option, being very close.
As you look at the Duomo, take the street to its right and immediately the first little street on the right. There you go, you’ve arrived. The harder part is choosing the flavors because there are many tempting ones…
They, like other good gelaterias, have ice cream in “barrels”.
If you don’t happen to pass by here or are already full, no worries, there is a Grom branch in the Santa Maria Novella train station as well. An ice cream is just perfect while you keep your eyes glued to the electronic board to see which platform you need to run to.
DON NINO
Also in Piazza del Duomo, a new spot has appeared not long ago (I discovered it here in 2021, but I knew it from Rome), Don Nino. It is right on the left side of the Duomo. There are tables outside where you can sit and enjoy your ice cream without it dripping on your hands.
PERCHÉ NO
The guide with whom I went on a “free walking tour” recommended this gelateria on Via dei Tavolini as the best in Florence!
I ate here too, I liked it, but my Top 3 includes others.
Perché no is also very convenient: it is on a small street perpendicular to the shopping street between the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria, close to Piazza della Repubblica.
It has been operating since 1939 and also offers desserts like mousse, vegan ice creams, or those made with soy milk.
GELATERIA DEI NERI
On Via dei Neri, a street right next to Palazzo Vecchio (to its right), you find this popular gelateria. The street itself is popular also because it hosts the sandwich shop All’antico Vinaio.
They have sandwiches filled with all sorts of local goodies, standard combinations or… whatever your mouth desires.
(The first time I got one from here, a huge sandwich cost 5 euros. In recent years when I’ve been, it had gone up to 6 euros. Update check online: now, in 2024, it costs between 7-11 euros for a sandwich.)
Oh my God, how many people always queue on both sides of the street to buy sandwiches from them!!! Here is proof from autumn 2018:
But let’s get back on track… to our ice creams, I mean.
LA STREGA NOCCIOLA
When you cross Ponte Vecchio towards Palazzo Pitti, right on the street perpendicular to the bridge, turn left and you’ll find this gelateria after about 30 meters, on the right sidewalk.
Before the gelateria, there is also a Conad supermarket, with very good products and prices.
VENCHI
I admit, I avoided Venchi for a long time. Both here and in Rome or other cities in Italy. It seemed like too big and widespread a brand, and I wanted to taste ice cream from small gelaterias preferred by locals.
But I finally tried it.
Hats off: it’s actually very good! Everything I tried was delicious!
They have enough varieties to satisfy different tastes, and their wall with flowing chocolate is a real magnet for tourists!
And the chocolate fountain:
Besides ice cream, they also have all sorts of candies and jarred creams perfect for gifting someone passionate, as they look very nice.
VIVOLI
Ok, I’ll tell you: Vivoli is one of my favorite gelaterias!
It is very close to Piazza di Santa Croce, on a more hidden street.
Stop by if you’re in the area. You’ll be licking your fingers!
There are tables inside, but also a few outside, which makes it even more attractive.
Be careful, it’s closed on Mondays! Otherwise, it’s open from early morning until not very late in the evening (8-21 daily, and on Sundays 9-20).
I understand that the location dates back to 1926, proudly surviving two disasters that struck the city: the Second World War and the great flood of 1966.
There are certainly other gelaterias in Florence, but since I haven’t discovered and tested them, I cannot (yet) include them in the list of recommendations.
THE COLOR OF ICE CREAM – TRICKS!
Finally, I’ll tell you what I learned from a food tour in Rome: don’t be fooled by two colors:
- Banana ice cream shouldn’t be yellow, but white! Surely, you don’t expect them to make it from the yellow peel, but from the white flesh, right?…
- Pistachio ice cream shouldn’t be an intense green, but rather a khaki brownish color.
Intense yellow and green colors can be an indicator that the ice cream is full of preservatives, colorants, artificial flavors, or, at best, mixed with something else (for example: banana + mango).
