…I was peacefully enjoying some grilled sausages with mustard in a Mioritic landscape when I heard about a German chef who owns a Michelin-starred restaurant in France, located in a manor where you can also spend the night.
Wouldn’t it be a shame not to switch from sausages and pork neck to gourmet dishes on this vacation?…
So, said and done!
I had already planned my route through Normandy, but I modified it because the place in question is only open from Thursday lunchtime to Sunday lunchtime. That’s it. I found this out through an email conversation with the Michelin-starred Chef himself, because my attention was elsewhere when I visited their website…
“Chef, do you want something from Romania?” I asked after booking my stay, curious if he would be interested in anything from here.
I was quite surprised when I read his response: “Some traditional cheese.”
Well, I didn’t see that coming! I had already prepared a jar of green walnut preserve and one of sour cherries, but now I had a clear mission: to find some good cheese, take it to France, and not just to anyone!
With great enthusiasm, I started researching the market, conducting surveys, and other analyses to decide which cheese to take. In the end, I chose a traditional cheese wrapped in natural casing and a piece of aged sheep’s milk cheese, really good, from Transylvania.
So, Dana girl, wrap it up in foil, bags, small bags, buy plastic boxes – several, since I wasn’t sure which one would fit, or which wouldn’t leak – then put everything in a thermal bag, hoping it would hold, so I wouldn’t find cheese juice all over the clothes in my suitcase…
Okay, everything’s fine so far, but what on earth am I going to do with the cheese for four days, since my reservation at the place in question is only on the fourth day!
And there I was, begging every hotel where I stayed in France to put my bag of cheese in their refrigerators… Finally, I made it to my destination with it intact, phew!
CAUDEBEC-EN-CAUX
I am between Rouen and Le Havre, in Normandy, on a hill in Caudebec-en-Caux. At a manor – or better said, a superb little château – with the Seine at its feet!
I’m “at home” at Chef David Goerne‘s place, the German who owns the Michelin-starred restaurant G.a. in France – awarded its star in 2016.
MANOIR DE RÉTIVAL
I park my car by the side of the road and stand there, like an idiot, admiring the building and everything around it. Manoir de Rétival is a blend of traditional architecture and modern amenities, as I had read earlier – a mansion that underwent a massive renovation a few years ago.
I enter.
Chef David is in the middle of preparing dinner, as everything is “fully booked”. He quickly comes out, we introduce ourselves in a mix of French and English, I hand over the bag, he thanks me, I briefly explain what each item is, and… he rushes back to the kitchen while I head to the room where I’ll be staying for the night.
A young man guides me along a path beside the manor, opens a side door, and leads me upstairs. I follow him.
When we reach the door at the top, he hands me the key and says: “This is where you’ll be staying”. And he shows me the “room”, while I marvel with every step:
The entrance hall
The hallway between rooms
Bedroom #1
Bedroom #2
“Hold on, young man, I’m alone; I only need one bedroom. How many more are there?!”
“One more”, he says with a laugh as he leads me to the third one. “You have plenty to choose from…”
I clearly claim this one, as it has a big bed and access to the terrace. And a TV.
(I had already tossed my first belongings on the bed)
The tour continues with the bathroom:
Besides this bathroom, there’s also a guest toilet located in the entrance hall. Just in case the postman arrives with your pension, has an emergency, and you don’t want to let him inside…
Next is the tour of the kitchen:
There’s a minibar (in the kitchen fridge), but also a basket with items for sale in case you get hungry or thirsty in the middle of the night.
Two bedrooms have a view of the Seine.
My bedroom, the bathroom, and the kitchen all have doors leading to a terrace bigger than my house!
From here, I can admire the property’s chapel. In fact, it’s a small church, whose bell rings when the meal is ready to be served.
I have to admit that right after the brief tour given by the young man who helped me with my suitcase, I filmed the entire house to show someone, discovering it with amazement. (Only after that did I start taking photos). Here are my first impressions:
I feel like I’m staying directly in the Village Museum, with all the things, objects, and elements gathered here and the “countryside” scent in the air. Modern amenities like a smart TV, a few DVDs, or some shower gel and shampoo bottles keep me in 2024…
The place has a unique charm, and I can see the attention to detail everywhere!
I start taking pictures of furniture, books, objects, paintings – as if these people hired me to do an inventory.
Dinner is served precisely at 7:00 PM, I was told from the beginning. So, I finish touring my country house and head downstairs.
I arrive a bit early and take advantage of the fact that the other guests haven’t come down from their apartments yet, to explore the place.
BISTRO AU COIN PERDU
Right next to the manor is a small, beautiful, and well-maintained house. What am I saying, “small”?? I’d instantly claim it as a vacation home, and it would even have room for my friends!
I find out that here is one of the four apartments on the property. The other three are in the manor. (Yes, there are only four accommodations, in total.) Each one is decorated differently.
On the ground floor of the house next to the manor is a brasserie, one that’s in high demand and more accessible than a formal dinner. In the evening, it’s full of cheerful, noisy people eating and drinking, so I preferred to take photos the next morning when I wouldn’t disturb any guests.
The two chefs I find behind the counter are already preparing dishes for today’s customers.
Before the dinner bell rings, I enter the manor and start admiring each room, every item that catches my eye.
I come across a kind of large living room, where tables are already set to welcome dinner guests.
Then I enter what seems to be a dining room, according to my understanding.
Ok, so this is likely where I’ll be eating as well.
One of the staff members leads me… into the courtyard. It’s time! Time for an experience filled with many unknowns, which gives me a sense of excitement.
G.a. MANOIR DE RÉTIVAL
Right in front of the manor, there are a few tables set in the gravel, where we’re seated “as friends” and by nationality. Several Germans fill a few tables, and I’m invited to sit alone at one. Danke schön!
What? Why are you looking like that??…Yes, yes, this is my table.
I could describe it in a fancy way, using the phrase “patina of time”, but let’s be honest: it’s simply rusted, haha. My neighbors have tablecloths, but I don’t mind. I actually find it quite amusing to start dinner at this table.
I’m served a glass of champagne.
“What type of dinner did you order?” the waiter asks.
Hmm… Who remembers? I’ve been emailing back and forth with Chef David. I reply, uncertainly, “dégustation”? I think that’s what it was called.
The website mentions that you can choose between three menus: The Week’s Menu, with wines paired with the dishes = 150 euros per person. Tasting Menu, also with wines correctly paired with the dishes = 200 euros per person. And the “Grand Menu Cuisine”, at 250 euros per person.
On top of that, you pay for water, coffee, and any special dish they might suggest. (Well, only if you want it, as you’re not obliged to order it.)
A cat is watching over us, making sure we don’t run off with the cutlery…
I wonder which language it understands better: German, French, or English. I notice that it also responds well to Romanian, without any fuss.
I barely take a sip of champagne when the first course arrives. Hold on tight!
Sichuan pepper flower. That’s what’s on my little plate. Where? Right there, the yellow one! I specifically moved it away from the blue flower on the plate, so you wouldn’t think it’s part of the design.
My goodness, it’s so tiny and light that I’m afraid the slightest breeze will blow it away!
(I placed my reading glasses next to it so you can understand the size of the plate, but more importantly, the size of the first course.)
Wait, it’s not that simple, I receive instructions: chew this flower and drink the champagne. This will create an effect in your mouth. I comply.
Interesting, really. It’s slightly spicy and acidic at the same time – there’s a party in my mouth 🙂
Plate number 2 – oyster with royal caviar.
The oyster is placed on some river stones. Cool idea! It’s also good for those trying an oyster for the first time because, as they say, you need to take a stone in your mouth haha. (Luckily, I’ve had oysters before…)
I’m not a fan of oysters, but I actually found this combination quite good!
Dish 3 – cup of Glace of Gin Fizz and caviar.
Well, don’t think I understood from the start what that piece of ice with the taste under the caviar was. But I did some research…
Well, don’t think I understood from the start what that piece of ice with the taste under the caviar was. But I did some research…
Next is mackerel in sauce… oeifwusrewoearofuj – I only understood the first part.
Delicious!
And just when I thought we were moving on to some meat or even a dessert, we’re invited inside.
“We’re going to the kitchen”, the waiter tells me. I don’t know why, maybe the Chef wants me to explain the thing with Romanian cheese.
But no…
Right in the kitchen, nicely arranged, with a view, is the table where my dinner is about to be served!
What?!? Dinner is just starting now?!? Oh my, how clueless I am!
I’m actually in the kitchen where the cooking is happening. Unusual place to eat as a tourist, right?
Wherever a table could fit, one has been placed.
I look at the army of glasses on the table and think I’m going to make a fool of myself. I’m not really a drinker of anything that would fit into these glasses. With the champagne outside, I’m set for a good while…
Before I can even think, the first glass is filled. Don’t ask me what it is, as I didn’t catch it. I taste it, but just symbolically.
The waiter watches my glass for a while, hoping it will be emptied so he can bring the next drink. At one point, I tell him not to wait in vain but to pour whatever he knows needs to be poured with each course.
Slowly, the kitchen fills up with guests – my neighbors, the Germans.
Basically, we’re in the middle of the production process, watching the Chef and his assistants prepare each dish for us. How cool is that!
ABBA, Sandra, and then Madonna with “Papa Don’t Preach” are singing from the speakers. Music for our age 🙂 The truth is, I couldn’t imagine more fitting music for this context.
And… dinner truly begins. Or “dégustation”, or whatever I’ve ended up with. It’s 7:25 PM.
Sensational foie gras with currant jam. The apple chip raises the artistic impression.
And I could eat three of these puff pastries, not just one!
Mousseline de Brochet with caviar and yellow wine.
Between courses, I stare at the Chef and the busy chefs working like little ants, trying to understand something from the German conversations, humming ABBA, and admiring the giant frame where customers have written their “reviews”. One more is needed, as there’s only room for about two more hearts.
Lobster salad (with lobster emulsion and chives)
A glass that smells strongly of basil!
I’m still trying to figure out what it is 🙂
Right next to me, Chef David is preparing the next dish with one of the guys. Meanwhile, another chef brings a chunk of meat to each table. He tells us they’ve just received Kobe beef and, if we want, they’ll cut it. It’s not on the menu, it’s an extra cost.
I’m the first one asked. Do I look wealthier? 🙂
I’ve had Kobe beef right in Japan. Very expensive, very good! So I’m the first to widen my eyes in anticipation. After quickly wondering how much it will cost me, I say, in a burst of arrogance: “Let’s go all out!” When it comes to the beef, that is…
The others also say yes, so they proceed with slicing the Kobe beef.
In the meantime, I receive something with truffles and a vegetable I abandon because it seems to be the sister of my nemesis, onions. I think it’s ris de veau, but let me check for sure.
Oh, I don’t need to mention that the glasses are always filled with drinks that match the dishes being served.
And the Kobe beef has been served. Oh my, it’s so good!!! Three small pieces on a small wooden board, with a bit of wasabi paste on the side if you want to feel the burn the next day… (I only tasted a bit of it because it was highly praised.)
A dessert with many elements, including what I think are a few raw peas. And that’s how you remember it clearly!
After the dessert comes the bonus: another dessert.
Two signature chocolate pralines, served on a brick that I think weighs 3 kilos, man! If a waiter drops it on your foot, you’re done for!
At 11:15 PM, I feel like my butt has taken the shape of the chair and, since I don’t drink coffee, tea, or digestifs and don’t want a “refill” on my wine glass (I know, I’m boring), I thank them kindly and retire to my very spacious apartments. Full, delighted, and thrilled by the experience.
I was a bit scared, I admit, because by not eating the onions and such, I risked not being able to eat who knows how many courses. However, it worked with “pushing it aside”. Thank you for the meal!
FRENCH BREAKFAST
And the next day came…
I kept the rusty table from yesterday, but now it’s beautifully “wrapped”. Everything is very colorful, and the breakfast is very tasty!
Chef David comes over and asks me about my experience from the night before. I don’t know how I understand that he’s also asking how I managed with the onions and such.
“I survived”, I tell him, and I see him stunned haha. He probably meant the entire experience, and I ended up hitting him with a frying pan!
“I’ll take it as a compliment”, he says. Certainly, no one has ever said after a Michelin-starred dinner that they survived… Oh, lost in translation. But it’s clear, that’s how my name will stay with him!
Since the Chef has a bit of time,
we go back to the subject Romanian cheese.
I try to use my phone to translate what that round cheese in the membrane is.
Then I try to explain how we make “bulz”. Shit, how do you say bulz in French,
English, German???
You should see me, man, giving a multilingual explanation about bulz: polenta with gekneteter Käse, oeuf et pancetta.
He said he would prepare it for his colleagues at lunch.
I left right after breakfast, so I didn’t find out how it turned out. However, I’m comforted by the saying: “pas de nouvelles, bonnes nouvelles” / “no news, good news” 🙂
2 Comments
Razvan
11 August 2024 at 20:11Superb!
Dana Mladin
12 August 2024 at 01:08Merci! Ma bucur ca ti-a placut. Si mie… mancarea 🙂